So this won't really be about when to change your oil or what products to use. I just wanted to share an interesting experience my wife and I had this past week. On Tuesday, I took my car to the dealership to get my oil changed and fix a nail I got in my rear tire. Thankfully, it was far enough from the enge that it could be patched. I really didn't feel like paying $250 for a new Pirelli tire. Since that was going to take 2 hours or so, I had my wife pick me up as we live just down the block from the dealership. A few hours later, I got the call my car was ready. We go out and try to start my wife's car: nothing. It won't turn over. I figured it was the battery so we tried to jump it with the neighbors truck, no go. I even left it connected for 2-3 minutes trying to charge it but it still wouldn't start. So I called the dealership and requested a shuttle pick up but it was already out and would be 45 to an hour. No problem, I wasn't in a rush. In the mean time; I took to google to try and figure out what else could be the problem if it wasn't the battery. Apparently, her model of Dodge had issues with the neutral safety switch which doesn't let you start the car if it's not in park or neutral. It was about $70 for the part but I didn't want to bother taking her car apart when we have a warranty with $100 deductible. I called the towing service, had it towed to the nearest Dodge dealership and left it overnight. Next day I get a call: it was the battery. I audibly sighed because I knew that wouldn't be covered under the warranty. Sure enough, I get to the dealership and had to pay $150 for their "1 hour diagnostic" fee. We went straight over to Sam's Club to get a new battery. Bought it, left the keys and walked around a bit in the store. We got a call and went back to the counter. Apparently the battery is in the wheel well and they aren't allowed to "disassemble" the car when they aren't working on it. So we took it home and I jacked up the car, took off the front driver tire, popped out the old and put in the new. Took all of 15 minutes. It can't be the first time a car has come in to Sam's that has the battery in the wheel well.
Anyway, lesson learned. Always test the battery first!
Monday, March 27, 2017
4 Cylinders, 6 Cylinders, 8 Cylinders: Oh My
A constant debate among muscle car owners is how many cylinders you need. I'll go with the short version first: go with what you can afford. It's that simple.
Now for a longer explanation. The Mustang and Campari now come in 3 mainstream configurations: Turbo 4, V6, and V8. Dodge still has just V6 and V8 options. With fuel economy, climate change, and alternative fuels being ongoing concerns, it may not be long until these discussion are a moot point. But for now they continue to rage on. For the die hard muscle car enthusiast, the only choice is to go V8. This is understandable as many classic models were only available as V8s of varying cubic inches and displacement. But in the modern era, it really doesn't matter. There's more focus than ever on the driving experience and each motor provides an exhilarating feeling when you hit the accelerator. The turbocharged 4 cylinder 2017 Camaro provides an affordable thrill for those seeking the sleek design of the new re-imagined muscle car. It's responsive and yet still fuel efficient. The V6 is a step up in speed and performance but with a slightly higher price tag and drop in MPGs. The SS V8 is the most expensive basic option but you get what you pay for: 455 horse power of rubber chewing madness. But that 6.2 liter engine means nothing if you can't afford the price tag that comes with it. Any true car enthusiast knows it's not about the size of the engine or the model for that matter. It's about how you feel about the car and how the car makes you feel.
I first owned a 2014 LS Camaro, the lowest end model you could get. But I went to every car show, club event, and cruise I could because it didn't matter how fast it was to them. It was about the love of your car and sharing that with others. I now own a 2015 SS but there are times I wish I still had that Red Hot V6.
So don't feel you have to get the biggest or fastest engine to fit in. Get what you can afford and enjoy the drive!
Now for a longer explanation. The Mustang and Campari now come in 3 mainstream configurations: Turbo 4, V6, and V8. Dodge still has just V6 and V8 options. With fuel economy, climate change, and alternative fuels being ongoing concerns, it may not be long until these discussion are a moot point. But for now they continue to rage on. For the die hard muscle car enthusiast, the only choice is to go V8. This is understandable as many classic models were only available as V8s of varying cubic inches and displacement. But in the modern era, it really doesn't matter. There's more focus than ever on the driving experience and each motor provides an exhilarating feeling when you hit the accelerator. The turbocharged 4 cylinder 2017 Camaro provides an affordable thrill for those seeking the sleek design of the new re-imagined muscle car. It's responsive and yet still fuel efficient. The V6 is a step up in speed and performance but with a slightly higher price tag and drop in MPGs. The SS V8 is the most expensive basic option but you get what you pay for: 455 horse power of rubber chewing madness. But that 6.2 liter engine means nothing if you can't afford the price tag that comes with it. Any true car enthusiast knows it's not about the size of the engine or the model for that matter. It's about how you feel about the car and how the car makes you feel.
I first owned a 2014 LS Camaro, the lowest end model you could get. But I went to every car show, club event, and cruise I could because it didn't matter how fast it was to them. It was about the love of your car and sharing that with others. I now own a 2015 SS but there are times I wish I still had that Red Hot V6.
So don't feel you have to get the biggest or fastest engine to fit in. Get what you can afford and enjoy the drive!
The art of the detailing
Every automotive enthusiast is going to have a different method for cleaning their vehicle. By no means am I the only person you should listen to or read about on how to wash and detail your car. But I got advice and tips from a few sources, including the demo by the guys at Gloss-It I mentioned in the my last post. So I'm just passing on the knowledge I've gathered to everyone, it's an evolving process.
Phase 1 - Deep Cleaning
So to start, it's best to have a good car-friendly all purpose cleaner that's good at removing built up dirt and grime. You'll want to spray this liberally on your wheels, front fascia, exhaust, and wheel wells. This will help break down all the build up since your last wash, especially brake dust inside the wheels. Let it sit while you get all your other products and water ready. One clean bucket with water /shampoo and another bucket for rinsing, the dirty bucket.
Next is the shampoo/car wash. I start with the wheels as they take the longest. I use a variety of tools to get into the crevices and inside the wheel itself. First is a short bristle brush to scrub the inner wheel behind the arms. Next is a long, soft bristle brush for the front face and lug recesses. Last is a quick once over with a sponge.
After rinsing the wheels, I move on to the rest of the car. Using a hand sponge designed to reduce swirls, I wash one part at a time depending on which side is facing the sun which I do last. So driver side, passenger side, front/hoot, and trunk/rear as 4 parts. Rinse each section after lathering.
From here, you'll want a good quality chamois or drying towel to reduce swirls in your paint. Many people just use a regular bath towel but you'll definitely want something microfiber if you don't use a chamois. One thing you can do to reduce the amount of drying is to blow off the excess water from surfaces and crevices with a leaf blower. After all the drying is done, time to detail.
Phase 2 - Devil in the Details
So you shouldn't worry too much about avoiding water spots after the wash, that's why we detail afterwards. My wash/detail session usually lasts about 90 minutes start to finish. Once you have it as try as can be, get out the quick detail spray of your choosing. The application method I use is to fold a small microfiber cloth into quarters. Use one side as the wet side and the other side as the dry polish side. With the right product, you don't have to spray too much to cover a large area. Head to toe, spray and wipe every inch of surface area.
A quick step after the detail spray is to use a good streak free, automotive window cleaner to get all your windows. Same method, wet side and dry polishing side of the towel.
Lastly, I use the detail spray on my wheels with a separate cloth than I use on my car. The wheels will never be 100% clean even after a good wash so I keep the towels separate. After the wheels, apply the tire shine of your choice. I prefer the clean look from a gel product rather than the wet look of most sprays.
That's basically it. Until next time, stay shiny my friends.
Phase 1 - Deep Cleaning
So to start, it's best to have a good car-friendly all purpose cleaner that's good at removing built up dirt and grime. You'll want to spray this liberally on your wheels, front fascia, exhaust, and wheel wells. This will help break down all the build up since your last wash, especially brake dust inside the wheels. Let it sit while you get all your other products and water ready. One clean bucket with water /shampoo and another bucket for rinsing, the dirty bucket.
Next is the shampoo/car wash. I start with the wheels as they take the longest. I use a variety of tools to get into the crevices and inside the wheel itself. First is a short bristle brush to scrub the inner wheel behind the arms. Next is a long, soft bristle brush for the front face and lug recesses. Last is a quick once over with a sponge.
After rinsing the wheels, I move on to the rest of the car. Using a hand sponge designed to reduce swirls, I wash one part at a time depending on which side is facing the sun which I do last. So driver side, passenger side, front/hoot, and trunk/rear as 4 parts. Rinse each section after lathering.
From here, you'll want a good quality chamois or drying towel to reduce swirls in your paint. Many people just use a regular bath towel but you'll definitely want something microfiber if you don't use a chamois. One thing you can do to reduce the amount of drying is to blow off the excess water from surfaces and crevices with a leaf blower. After all the drying is done, time to detail.
Phase 2 - Devil in the Details
So you shouldn't worry too much about avoiding water spots after the wash, that's why we detail afterwards. My wash/detail session usually lasts about 90 minutes start to finish. Once you have it as try as can be, get out the quick detail spray of your choosing. The application method I use is to fold a small microfiber cloth into quarters. Use one side as the wet side and the other side as the dry polish side. With the right product, you don't have to spray too much to cover a large area. Head to toe, spray and wipe every inch of surface area.
A quick step after the detail spray is to use a good streak free, automotive window cleaner to get all your windows. Same method, wet side and dry polishing side of the towel.
Lastly, I use the detail spray on my wheels with a separate cloth than I use on my car. The wheels will never be 100% clean even after a good wash so I keep the towels separate. After the wheels, apply the tire shine of your choice. I prefer the clean look from a gel product rather than the wet look of most sprays.
That's basically it. Until next time, stay shiny my friends.
More about cleaning
Every so often, we get a good string of rainy days and it makes keeping your car clean a shiny a miserable battle. Call me crazy or obsessed, but I typically plan my car washes around the weather app on my phone. On Saturday or Sunday, I usually check the 5-7 day forecast to see if there is a chance of rain coming up. Clouds on the digital horizon? No car wash. I spend a fair penny on the cleaning products I buy so I don't want to waste them if it's only going to be a day or two before the next time I have to wash. Speaking of products, I use an array of items from Gloss-It. They're a locally owned and operated company with a wide array of detailing, cleaning, and restoration products. Our car club, Southern Nevada Camaro Club, had a special event demo a year or so back and I got to see all their products used first hand. I came to believe in their products and use them to this day. Most are non-petroleum based and don't leave residue or grime on your hands or your car. The car shampoo is by far my most used product. It helps balance the pH of the water you use and reduces minerals that cause water spots. At some point I'll go over my method of cleaning but for now I figured I'd share my product list. So on a regular wash, I use the following:
Car shampoo
All Purpose Cleaner
Tire, Vinyl, Rubber protector/shine
And the detail spray I mentioned in the previous post. This is for basic cleanings. We'll get into clay bars and polish another time. So keep your cars shiny and out of the rain!
Car shampoo
All Purpose Cleaner
Tire, Vinyl, Rubber protector/shine
And the detail spray I mentioned in the previous post. This is for basic cleanings. We'll get into clay bars and polish another time. So keep your cars shiny and out of the rain!
Thursday, March 16, 2017
Spring is in the air
Quite literally, even if it's not officially spring yet. Here in Las Vegas, temperatures have been plenty warm for trees and flowers to start blooming. Every day after work, there is a film of pollen and dust all over my car! Having a black hood (vinyl), it's very noticeable in the evening sunlight. Some days it bothers me enough that I use my California Car Duster before even leaving the parking lot. I usually just get the hood and windshield and then dust the entire body once I get home. It's important to have a wide variety of car care and cleaning products as at automotive enthusiast. Nothing says you couldn't care less about your car than by having it covered in water spots from last week's rain, dust and pollen caked on for more than a day, or excessive brake dust and dirt on your shiny wheels. Be sure to keep a duster in your trunk and a good microfiber cloth with some quick detailer, such as the Gloss Envy Detail Spray from Gloss-It. They're a local company in Las Vegas and have a wide range of car detailing and repair products.
Keep those finishes shiny and dust/pollen free!
Keep those finishes shiny and dust/pollen free!
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